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projects:jansonntag [2021/02/06 18:54] jan |
projects:jansonntag [2021/03/13 14:00] jan |
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- | **Analog Keyboard Project** | + | ====== |
**The plan:** | **The plan:** | ||
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Use mechanical Cherry MX Keys for analog input without modifying them.\\ | Use mechanical Cherry MX Keys for analog input without modifying them.\\ | ||
- | {{https:// | + | {{https:// |
**Concept: | **Concept: | ||
- | Use a circuit board coil to measure how far the key is pressed by measuring the inductance of the underlying coil. This should work because the Cherry MX has a metal spring inside. Also, it has been done before but without good documentation. [[https:// | + | Use a circuit board coil to measure how far the key is pressed by measuring the inductance of the underlying coil. This should work because the Cherry MX has a metal spring inside. Also, it has been done before but without good documentation. [[https:// |
- | **Attempt 1**\\ | + | \\ |
- | I made some rough sketches in Photoshop CS2 (yes Coil CB Designs in Photoshop). It worked out quite " | + | [[JanSonntag:attempt1|Attempt 1]]\\ |
- | {{: | + | I tried using a milled single-sided circuit board and a simple circuit by electronoobs |
- | And also for people interested in the PSD-File: \\ | + | \\ |
- | The coil design you see is a special one and named planar coils. It is commonly used in microactuators or PCB motors. But I want to test if it works for my use-case also. The big plus point for this: I don't have to look into making a double-sided CB. Not so good is the number of windings I can do but maybe it will work out fine. It's still an experiment none the less. If you want to read more about this type of coils have a look into this: [[https:// | + | \\ |
- | The pictures were converted for the milling machine with the help of [[http:// | + | [[JanSonntag:attempt2|Attempt 2]]\\ |
- | The traces-picture needed the process "PCB traces (1/ | + | Here I tried designing |
- | + | \\ | |
- | {{: | + | \\ |
- | + | [[JanSonntag:attempt3|Attempt 3]]\\ | |
- | As you may see we already did one pass before. The inconsistent color on the right coil shows that the bed of the machine is not perfectly level. From the first pass to the last pass, we were going down 0.05mm each pass. Here are the results:\\ | + | This has the first useable results! I made my first PCB and programmed an Arduino library. Seems very promising |
- | {{: | + | \\ |
- | The left coil is designed with finner but therefore more windings. The problem right now there seemed to be a bit too far apart. The milling machine did two runs between two windings. Maybe I could get it to work with just one pass so that they be even narrower or I would have to make them even further apart. But with a multimeter, | + | \\ |
- | {{uploads: | + | [[JanSonntag:attempt4|Attempt |
- | The right coil looks a bit better. But it also has fewer coil turns and they are a bit more spaced apart. The spacing between the windings seems to be a bit more consistent. Also, there is some copper left between the windings. Hopefully, this can be scraped away later with a knife.\\ | + | \\ |
- | {{: | + | \\ |
- | + | [[JanSonntag:relatedLinks|Links]]\\ | |
- | The holes came out well, at least their placing. Because the holes are not 100% straight and the middle one was a bit too small it did not fit well. This is mostly a problem in the middle one. This can be fixed in the next attempt.\\ | + | |
- | After that, I just soldered some jumper cables to the pads. Now I have to make a circuit so I can measure the inductance of the coils. | + | |
- | {{: | + | |
- | I tested out [[http:// | + | |
- | + | ||
- | **Attempt 2** | + | |
- | + | ||
- | So today I made a first rough sketch of what I had in mind. I really don' | + | |
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- | {{: | + | |
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- | I still didn´t test the new design but I found some other cool links | + | |
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- | * https:// | + | |
- | * https:// | + | |
- | * https:// | + | |
- | * https:// | + | |
- | + | ||
- | **Attempt 3** | + | |
- | + | ||
- | After a while of looking at it, this seems far too complicated! There have to be simpler, cheaper, and more accurate solutions. I started searching for some ICs that maybe can do the trick but didn't found any good other than the links I posted above. But then Henrik found something great: The LDC1314 | + | |
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- | It is really good...I think. | + | |
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- | https:// | + | |
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- | And ti even has an informative paper about PCB-Coils and LDC Sensor Design: https://www.ti.com/ | + | |
- | + | ||
- | * 7-9 | + | |
- | + | ||
- | On it goes with designing a real PCB. The Milled CBs are just not accurate enough for this kinda task. Some cheap prototype PCBs from China have to be used. Maybe I should think about selling these when I´m finished. Getting kinda pricy. ( :thinking: about Best Idea Cup (maybe not because it's not my idea)) | + | |
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- | {{: | + | |
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- | This is the current state. The PCB Coil is still missing. Have to do some calculations. Btw I´m now using Eagle! This is so much more comfortable than EasyEDA and KiCad! Btw: When this works, | + | |
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- | I found even more detailed pictures on the website of the " | + | |
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- | {{https:// | + | |
- | + | ||
- | Now with a 5V to 3.3V converter with ultra-low noise output. With all these bypass capacitors this has to be a super-duper ultra-low noise circuit. | + | |
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- | {{: | + | |
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- | Just the Coils are missing (not that much work just a symbol with another capacitor in parallel). Then I have to design the PCB. I think I decided on making the prototype a 4 layer one. JLCs capabilities are just so much better with these then. | + | |
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- | Had to take a break from this project. Now one and half months later I´m on it again. So nothing has changed. Still planning | + | |
- | + | ||
- | - 2 Real Layers on an otherwise 4 Layer PCB with a big via | + | |
- | - 2 Real Layers on an otherwise 4 Layer PCB without a big via | + | |
- | - 4 Real Layers on a 4 Layer PCB without a big via (because two are needed) | + | |
- | - 2 Real Layers on an otherwise 4 Layer PCB with a big via but with JLCs Capabilities for 2 Layer PCB | + | |
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- | Here an example of design number 1 I made: | + | |
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- | {{: | + | |
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- | For the coils, I made some calculations, | + | |
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- | {{: | + | |
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- | Because of this I now know that I need the LTC6900 to output a frequency of roughly 6Mhz. Therefore I need to calculate the resistance of the resistor at the Set-Pin of the LTC6900. I calculated with this formula: | + | |
- | {{: | + | |
- | N = 1 | + | |
- | + | ||
- | So I need a 33.3kOhm resistor in front of the LTC6900 Set-Pin. | + | |
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- | And here is my first " | + | |
- | {{: | + | |
- | Btw I don't know how to make PCB-board-layouts. This can only get better.\\ | + | |
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- | After I tried some designs I guess the only real option that is possible with the keys is Option Number 1 (2 Real Layers on an otherwise | + | |
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- | {{: | + | |
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- | I had some room left and also added a part where I can plug in an Arduino Pro Micro and connect to the real MX Key Pins.\\ | + | |
- | So some time has past and I have waited nearly a month for my PCBs to arrive (because of customs). But they turned out great: | + | |
- | {{: | + | |
- | {{: | + | |
- | With a cheap microscope of eBay, I started inspecting the PCB. It´s stunning how tiny the coil traces are! With a " | + | |
- | {{: | + | |
- | {{: | + | |
- | And some more shots of the finished PCB: | + | |
- | {{: | + | |
- | {{: | + | |
- | Directly related links: | + | <WRAP center round tip 60%> |
- | https://www.sciencedirect.com/ | + | This project isn't documented all at once. I keep adding stuff on the go. |
- | https:// | + | </WRAP> |
- | https:// | + | |
- | http:// | + | |
- | https:// | + | |
- | Related links: | ||
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